Niue

After spending some incredible time in Palmerston, it was time for our next destination: Niue, a tiny island in the middle of the Pacific that, until a few weeks ago, we honestly didn't know much about. Looking back now, it turned out to be one of our favourite stops so far. Niue is the world's largest uplifted coral atoll. Unlike many Pacific islands with long white sandy beaches, Niue rises dramatically out of the ocean. Steep limestone cliffs surround almost the entire island, hiding countless caves, arches, and crystal-clear swimming pools. It is unlike anywhere else we have been.

A Rough Welcome

Our crossing started out relaxed, but during the last day the wind steadily increased, bringing bigger seas with it. Every now and then a wave would break over the side of Tauha, giving us an unexpected full-body saltwater shower. After a while you just have to laugh about it because there really isn't much else you can do.

As the island came closer, the scenery immediately caught our attention. The cliffs seemed to rise straight out of the ocean, making Niue look almost inaccessible from the sea. It was a very different first impression from most of the islands we had visited before.

As we approached Alofi, we still had one final challenge ahead of us. To reach the harbour we had to tack into the wind. During one of the tacks the genoa sheets started flapping wildly across the deck. One of them repeatedly slammed into our Bimini window until it broke. Not exactly great, but to be honest, those windows were already so sun damaged that we couldn't see out of them anymore. At least now we could see something through them.

By the time we picked up one of the harbour moorings it was already getting dark. Customs would have to wait until the next morning. After several days at sea, we didn't have much energy left anyway. We were perfectly happy to cook some dinner, enjoy a cold beer in the cockpit, and simply appreciate the fact that we had arrived safely.

Customs Confusion

The following morning we radioed the harbour to ask for permission to come ashore and clear customs. Unlike many other Pacific islands, customs officers in Niue don't come out to visiting yachts. Instead, you have to bring your dinghy into the harbour yourself. Getting ashore here is quite interesting because the surrounding reef makes it difficult to have a normal marina. Instead, they have built a system where your dinghy is lifted completely out of the water with a crane, placed onto a trailer, and then set down onto the concrete. Luckily, we already have lifting bridles installed on our dinghy, so the whole process went surprisingly smoothly. While we were lifting the dinghy out of the water, a woman stopped next to Alex. "Have you already been on the island?" "No," Alex answered. "We just arrived. We're here to clear customs." She simply nodded and drove away. We started walking uphill, trying to figure out where exactly the customs office was located. Only a minute later the very same woman pulled up beside us again. As it turned out...She was customs. Apparently she simply hadn't thought it necessary to mention that during our first conversation. After a bit of paperwork we were officially checked into Niue and ready to start exploring.

Alex's Famous Broccoli Salad

Our first stop after customs was naturally the supermarket. One thing we've learned while sailing through the Pacific is that fresh vegetables can become surprisingly exciting, because they so difficult to get anywhere. Walking through the small grocery store we suddenly spotted a fridge and in it....BROCCOLI. During the crossing we had actually been talking about how much we were craving Alex's famous broccoli salad. So seeing fresh broccoli sitting on the shelf genuinely felt like finding treasure. We quickly collected everything else we needed from here and two other stores including cheese, bacon, and a few other vegetables. Unfortunately we couldn't find peas, but that certainly wasn't going to stop us. That evening we finally had Alex's broccoli salad again, and after weeks without fresh vegetables it tasted absolutely amazing. Sometimes it's the simple things that make you happiest.

The Early Bird Catches The Worm

Wednesday morning taught us another interesting thing about Niue: this island wakes up incredibly early. Before sunrise, there's a small local market where people sell fresh fruit, vegetables, and homemade products. Curious to experience it for ourselves, we got up at 5:30 a.m. and walked over while it was still dark. Even at that hour, there were already plenty of locals out and about. We picked up a fresh sandwich and two delicious papayas before making our way down to the waterfront. Sitting on the rocks with our breakfast, watching Tauha lying peacefully on her mooring while the first rays of sunlight slowly lit up the cliffs, was a wonderful way to start the day. Moments like these remind us that some of the best experiences while travelling don't cost much, they simply require getting out of bed a little earlier.

Afterwards, we decided that one breakfast wasn't quite enough and treated ourselves to a second one at one of the restaurants overlooking the ocean. With a fresh fruit smoothie in hand and an incredible view across the Pacific, there really couldn't have been a better way to spend the morning.

The rest of Wednesday turned into one of those classic boat days. There are always little jobs waiting to be done, fixing something, cleaning something else, or preparing for the next passage, and before you know it, half the day has disappeared.

Just after lunch, however, our plans changed. Our neighbours on a beautiful catamaran invited us over for sunset drinks.

What started as a quick visit turned into one of those evenings that remind us why we love the sailing community so much. We swapped stories from recent passages, shared advice about destinations still ahead of us, laughed about the things that had gone wrong along the way, and somehow watched the sun disappear before we even noticed how late it had become. Those spontaneous evenings with fellow sailors often end up being some of our favorite memories.

Exploration Day

The following day we rented a car so we could explore Niue properly. Before doing that, however, we had another important task: laundry.

Doing laundry while sailing around the world is never as straightforward as it sounds. Many islands don't have public laundromats. Instead, you hear from other sailors about someone's house where you can have your clothes washed. So that's exactly what we did. Alex walked up to a private house, knocked on the door, and politely asked whether they were still doing laundry for visiting sailors. They were. The lady welcomed us with a smile, offered us coffee and took our bags of dirty clothes, asked us to sign her guestbook, and told us to come back the following day. She would wash everything, dry it, fold it neatly, and have it waiting for us. It's little interactions like these that make travelling through the Pacific so special. With that taken care of, we picked up our rental car and headed off around the island.

Our very first stop overlooked huge waves crashing violently against the cliffs. The sea was rough that day, and watching enormous walls of water explode against the limestone rocks was absolutely spectacular. Salt spray filled the air while the sound of the waves echoed across the coastline.

Only a short drive later the scenery changed completely. Instead of dramatic cliffs, we found a calm natural swimming pool with unbelievably clear turquoise water. It looked almost unreal, like something you would expect to see on the cover of a travel magazine. The best part? We had the entire place to ourselves. As we walked through the crystal-clear water we suddenly noticed several sea snakes gliding around our feet. We would later learn that they are actually highly venomous. Luckily, their mouths are so small that they almost never manage to bite humans, and there has never been a recorded death from one of these sea snakes.

Our next stop was Niue's old harbour, where we learned about one of the island's local legends, a woman who, according to the story, was swallowed by a whale and eventually carried all the way to Tonga. Like so many places in the Pacific, every corner seemed to have another fascinating story attached to it. And the day was only just getting started...

After that, things became even more exciting. We were heading to what the locals call a chasm. Following the path, it almost felt unreal, like something designed for Disney World, except this was not a theme park. It was completely natural, and we had the whole place to ourselves. The trail led us down many stairs until suddenly the earth seemed to split open in front of us. Back in the day, the people of Niue used this place as a source of fresh drinking water. Today, it feels almost like entering a hidden cave. Openings above let sunlight pour in, and we could swim through the narrow passages until we reached the other side. There, surrounded by rocks and shafts of daylight, we sat in peace for a while. Then something unexpected happened: tiny freshwater shrimp started swimming around us, gently nibbling on our skin. A natural spa treatment!

Afterwards, we continued on a small hike through the forest. Suddenly, the trees opened up and the landscape completely changed. In front of us was a wild, almost otherworldly scene. To me, it looked like something straight out of The Lord of the Rings: sharp coral rock formations pointing into the sky, waves crashing against the cliffs in the distance, and the deep roar of the ocean filling the air. Following the trail further, we reached a ladder leading down towards the water. From there, we could enter another cave. Every now and then, a wave would crash inside, sending water flying through the air. Absolutely incredible.

We continued exploring the coastline until we were getting tired, so we decided to finish the day with one last walk, along the reef during low tide. The entire reef was exposed, creating a huge natural pathway over the ocean floor. It was beautiful.

What a day.

Morning Swim

The following morning, we still had our rental car, and we wanted to visit one more place: a cave that was supposed to be swimmable at low tide. We arrived very early, but it was absolutely worth getting up for. The sun had just risen, and once again we had the place completely to ourselves. Inside the cave was a stunning blue pool where we could swim while looking out towards the open ocean, watching waves roll in through the entrance. It was one of those moments you know you will remember for a long time.

We also wanted to try snorkelling at another location. The spot itself was beautiful, especially because it was where fresh water and salt water meet, creating a fascinating mix of different environments. You could even swim through a natural stone arch out towards the reef. Unfortunately, the waves were already getting too high as we approached high tide, and the water was starting to cover the reef. It was not safe to get in, so we decided to go for another hike instead.

The next trail led us through beautiful forests, and Alex even had the highlight of spotting a coconut crab. The hike ended at another spectacular cave. Walking through it brought us out to the ocean, where huge stone arches framed the waves below. Standing inside one of those natural rock arches, looking out over the Pacific, was simply breathtaking. Eventually, our rental car time came to an end, so we returned it. But we were not ready to give up exploring yet. We asked the owner if there was any chance we could rent it again on Sunday. Even though they normally do not work on Sundays, the lovely lady arranged everything so we could pick it up again.

Magic Night

That evening, while sitting in the cockpit of Tauha, something magical happened. Suddenly, I heard a loud whoosh. At first, I could not believe what I was hearing. It was incredibly loud and close. I called Alex immediately. “Come quickly!” We stood there watching, and then it happened again. And again. Multiple whales were surfacing right next to our boat. In the moonlight, just meters away from Tauha, were the first humpback whales we had seen on our journey. They were swimming peacefully alongside us, completely unaware of how special this moment was for us. Wow!

Show Day

The next morning was another early start. We woke up at 5:30 to attend the island’s monthly celebration, show day. Every month, the event is held in a different part of Niue. Locals sell homemade food, drinks, and handicrafts, while performances and traditional activities take place throughout the morning.

We arrived right as it started, mainly because Alex wanted to make sure we could still get a coconut crab. Luckily, we managed to get one, and I think we were actually among the first visitors there. Afterwards, we enjoyed coffee and tea, as well as a local speciality called nane, a warm sweet drink made from coconut and taro root, which gives it a thick and creamy texture. We also tried a local crepe with coconut and cream. Delicious.

And of course, there was already a barbecue happening, even though it was still morning. That is very common here because once the performances begin, many of the small food stalls start closing. People buy their food beforehand, have it wrapped in aluminium foil, and enjoy it later while watching the celebrations.

Sitting later on the grass in the sunshine, watching a local hairpiece competition and the performances of the school children, was such a wonderful experience. It gave us a glimpse into Niue's culture. Around midday, we returned to the boat and spent the rest of the day relaxing.

The End

Sunday was our final day on the island. In the afternoon, we picked up the rental car one last time and returned to the snorkelling spot we had missed earlier. We were so glad we came back. Not only was the area fascinating because of the mix between fresh and salt water, but we could also swim through the natural rock arch out towards the reef. Once there, we climbed out and walked across the exposed coral until we found deep natural pools carved into the reef We spent some time swimming there, surrounded by the ocean and ancient coral rock.

Another unforgettable Niue experience.

At sunset, we went to the beach and watched the sun disappear below the horizon while Alex flipped stones and explored the shoreline. Then came Monday, our departure day. There was still a lot to do: going ashore for our clearance, checking out of the country, buying some last provisions, filling our water jugs, and returning the rental car. And just like that, our time in Niue came to an end. With full hearts and many incredible memories, we raised the anchor and set our course for Tonga.

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