We found Nemo in Huahine

After our first crossing, we finally arrived in the stunning lagoon of Huahine, anchoring in Baie d’Avea. Surrounded by deep blue water, lush green mountains, and white sandy beaches, it was one of those “we actually made it” moments. Absolutely breathtaking. After 24 hours of sailing, we decided to slow down first and let everything sink in. We were here. Our first real passage was done, and the setting couldn’t have been more beautiful.

Right in front of the boat stretched a long sandbank, and when we drifted over it with the dinghy, we could clearly see stingrays gliding over the seabed beneath us. One of the very first things we did after arriving was go snorkeling. That was, after all, one of the main reasons we came all this way. It did not disappoint. Corral gardens, bright blue shells, and endless schools of fish made it feel like we had suddenly entered Finding Nemo. And yes, we actually found Nemo. The clownfish were not the tiny creatures I had always imagined. Some were surprisingly large, while others, the younger ones, cautiously peeked out from their anemones.

After a while underwater, we explored the island itself. It felt noticeably different from Moorea and Tahiti. Less humid, more open, and somehow more relaxed. The gardens and houses felt more spacious and well kept, and walking along the road was a pleasure. Occasionally, small fires from burning trash reminded us how close to nature life still is here, but the road eventually led us to a beautiful beach and a small historic site. Everything felt calm and authentic.

Besides snorkeling, we also tackled some boat jobs. Alex was busy replacing dead cables and checking the fuel tank, while I started giving the outside of the boat a much-needed cleaning. Slowly but surely, she was beginning to look more like a well-cared-for home again. Even so she still has a long way to go. Alex also had his first fishing success over the reefs. While he was trolling the fishing line, quite a few fish started biting. Most of them were camouflage grouper, which we did not eat since they can carry toxins. But he also caught a beautiful blacktail snapper, which we enjoyed for dinner and it was delicious.

On another evening, when we didn’t have snapper on the menu, we decided to head ashore for dinner. And what a dinner it was. We found a small family-run restaurant with a grill, and for the first time in a while, we had fresh salad, grilled chicken, and beef. Simple, but absolutely delicious. The sunset that evening was spectacular, lighting up the entire bay in warm golden and red tones. Sitting there with a cold beer and a piña colada felt almost unreal. Then came a surprise. The owner approached us and asked if we would like to move from the grassy area to a table directly on the beach. A group had canceled last minute, but they had already arranged live music and dancers, and she didn’t want it to go to waste. Twist our arm. Soon we were sitting at a long table on the beach together with a few other couples. Torches were lit along the shore, and as the first musicians arrived with ukuleles and drums, six dancers followed, three women and three men. What unfolded was a beautiful traditional performance right in front of us. At one point, we were even invited to join in. Let’s just say our hips were not quite prepared for Polynesian dance moves, but we gave it our best shot anyway. It was a night we won’t forget anytime soon.

Back on our boat under a sky full of stars, with a perfect look at the milky way, felt almost unreal. We sat on deck for a while, trying to identify constellations, from the Southern Cross to the “tea kettle”, before eventually falling into bed completely content.

The next day, however, the anchorage changed. Swell rolled in, the boat started moving more, and suddenly I felt very dizzy. Seasickness caught me off guard, likely a mix of too much sun the days before and the unsettled water. With the forecast showing even more swell and rain arriving we made a spontaneous decision the next day: it was time to move on. The next morning, we set sail for Raiatea so I could recover, and because in true cruising fashion, it was simply time to continue the journey. And so we left Baie d’Avea behind, carrying nothing but incredible memories.

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